My heart was beating through my chest as I came within a feet of a harpoon ship and the lethal spike on its bow. But this was unlike the times I had come close to harpoon ships before. Coming back from covering an anti-whaling campaign in the Antarctic, ambushed and attacked by Japanese harpoon ships for weeks, you would think I would be used to seeing these gunner ships. However, this particular ship, the Cheynes IV, was apart of an old Australian whaling fleet and was now an on-land museum of Australian history. The harpoon ship was no longer operational, but my adrenaline kicked in nonetheless as I walked up to it. Having finished my time onboard ship with Sea Shepherd, the radical anti-whaling campaigners who pursued the Japanese whaling fleet all winter, I took a road-trip down to Albany, Western Australia. A little over 30 years ago, a group of radical activists including my parents, Robert and Bobbi Hunter, protested Australia's whaling here. Leaving almost daily with two Zodiacs off of Albany's coast in September 1977, they were able to harass the Australian whaling fleet. Their protest lead to international attention on Australia's whaling, a national inquiry and the end of the whaling industry in Australia.
Today, Australia is one of the strongest anti-whaling nations in the world. It both supports anti-whaling groups like Sea Shepherd and lobbies against countries that continue to kill whales, such as Japan. And over 30 years later, what I found in Albany in my own visit was a beacon of change. The main industry today in the city eco-tourism and whale-watching. An industry that has brought more income to the city and its citizens than the whaling industry ever did. As tourists from around the world come to Albany to learn about whales and see the great animals alive.
The old whaling station and its harpoon ships in Albany, owned and operated by the Cheynes Beach Whaling Company, are relics of the past. It's now been turned into a museum called Whale World. There, visitors can venture through an old harpoon ship, the Cheynes IV, and the old whaling station, including its processing decks, boiler rooms, storage, and so on.
In Albany, organic local foods are the standard for residents. And the majority of Albany's energy is produced with green wind power, powering 75 percent of the city's energy needs with 12 1,800 KW wind turbines. Albany residents have lowered their greenhouse gas emissions by about 77,000 tonnes annually, which roughly equivalent to the annual emissions of 13,000 homes in the UK.
But out of all of this, the most surprising thing I experienced in Albany was to have an ex-whaler as my tour guide of the city. Kees Van der Gaag is a dutch whaler who came to Australia in 1969. As a master and gunner of the Cheynes II for the Cheynes Beach Whale Company between 1970 and 1977, he always enjoyed the chase but dreaded the kill. After a meeting of minds with anti-whaling protestors in 1977, he quit whaling and found work on a tugboat instead. Now retired and in his 70's, he is a stanch protestor against countries that continue to whale.
"It is horrifically cruel and completely unnecessary," Van der Gaag tells me. "I know better than most, because I used to be a gunner myself."
Whale meat, used in Australia for dog food and in the manufacture of missile lubricants 30 years ago, is not used for anything more crucial today in Japan. There, it is served in cafeterias in high schools, jails and military bases — and still used as dog food. Some things have changed, but others have stayed the same.
It always seems in environmentalist circles that as one battle is won, another one begins, or the larger war rages on undaunted. Counties like Australia, Canada and England no longer kill whales. This is primarily because of protests, such as the one in Albany 30 years ago, that led to international pressure and an international ban on commercial whaling (commercial whaling being the main culprit for landing the great whale species of the world on endangered-species lists in the first place). However, countries such as Japan and Iceland have pried open loopholes and commercial whaling still continues in some parts of the world. These days, nearly a thousand whales, including endangered species, are targeted every year in the Southern Ocean.
But even though the ecological battles of the past may seem lost at times and the eco-fight today is even more global and apocalyptic than ever before — there are symbols that we must hang on to. Albany is one of those symbols.
The city is proof that things can change. The jobs and industries of Albany have been partly transformed into a sustainable green economy. The city is doing better financially because of it. And the chief offenders themselves, the whalers, are now environmentalists. This all happened because of some pretty simple ideas. But those ideas drove people to action. Things have changed for the better in the past and can change again. But it is people, and it has always been people, that make the differance.
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